I have scoured the earth to bring you these tidbits of pleasure, but here some tidbits from my backyard.

In early spring in Connecticut, you can get shad and shad roe as well as soft shelled crabs. People have asked me for decades how I manage to make these innocuous items taste so good.

The first photo is a shad roe 'pair'. I have tried every whichway of cooking it, but the hands-down best way is to slowly roast it in butter. You can heat up the butter in a cast iron skillet, season the row with sea salt and freshly ground pepper, and put it in the pan when the butter has melted. Don't let the butter get brown. After 2 minutes, place the pan in a hot oven (350 F.) for a period of time (8-10 minutes). The finished roe should be 'medium rare' and warm all the way through. To eat it, lock yourself in your bedroom or bathroom and eat it slowly, savoring every creamy bite.

The second photo is of live soft shelled crabs. It's best to eat 5 or 10 or more at a meal because they are so good. When I cooked some for a well-known food writer in New York City, I told her to put away her utensils and eat them with her hands. That way, when the roe leaked out onto her hands, she could lick it off. This is no joke. I repeat, this is no joke. You know that the row of soft shelled crabs, lobsters, scallops, and other sea-faring creatures is sometimes better than the creature himself.

But how do you cook soft shelled crabs? Again, take out your trusty cast-iron frying pan, melt some butter until it starts to brown, add your crabs, cook a few minutes per side, and serve. Don't use silverware. Don't season them. Don't overcook them. (Stick your finger inside to make sure they are hot.) Don't forget to clean them before you cook them. And don't share them unless you have a lot. Actually, it is fun to eat them with other people who love them as much as I love them. All food is like that. It's like standing in front of a great painting or listening to music with a group of fellow art lovers. Just bring plenty of napkins.

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